2024


July 7 - Pittsburgh Pirates vs. New York Mets, PNC Park
July 8 - Cincinnati Reds vs. Colorado Rockies, Great American Ballpark
July 9 - Nashville Sounds vs. Iowa Cubs, First Horizon Park
July 11 - Chattanooga Lookouts vs. Biloxi Shuckers, AT&T Field
July 12 - Asheville Tourists vs. Aberdeen Ironbirds, McCormick Field
July 13 - Charlotte Knights vs. Durham Bulls, Truist Field

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Two Guys and a Map Hall of Fame Two Guys and a Map Ballpark Scorecard Two Guys and a Map Cultural Landmarks


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Our original plan for 2024 was to build a trip around the Los Angeles Dodgers visit to Yankee Stadium in June so we could witness DC's son Dan and daughter-in-law Alyssa rooting their hearts out for their favorite (opposing) teams. But when the schedules came out, we couldn't put together a trip around those games that we were enthusiastic about - neither the cultural landmarks nor the ballparks we'd visit for the first time were particularly appealing to us.

We decided to head in another direction - instead of heading north to New York, we turned our attention to the South. At the time we were planning the trip, DC's daughter Aliyah was considering taking a job in Augusta, GA. So, we decided to do a trip that would allow us to see her. To do that, we needed to get from the Washington DC area to Georgia and back.

Since Aliyah's plans weren't set in stone, we had a backup plan in case she didn't end up in Augusta. That turned out to be a good idea. Aliyah's arrival in Georgia was delayed so we went with our alternate route. While we were sorry to miss her, we were happy to avoid Atlanta rush hour, which we did by heading east from Chattanooga, TN to Asheville, NC instead of south to Augusta.


We ended up with a route that went through many of the same places as we'd been to on our 2018 Ring Around The Appalachians Tour but with an almost entirely new set of experiences.

On our 2018 tour we stopped in Nashville but only for a few hours and left without seeing baseball or really soaking up much of the culture of Music City.

We hadn't realized until after the fact that on our 2012 tour we'd been only an hour from Muscle Shoals, AL, the home of two famous recording studios. Dave had been kicking himself ever since for missing the chance to visit them.

We'd driven past Chattanooga and Charlotte in 2018; this time we stopped there. Dayton and Asheville were new Two Guys stops as well.

As for ballparks, we'd been to a ballgame in Cincinnati in 2004 but Dave barely remembered the ballpark and wanted to go back. We'd also been to Pittsburgh before but all the minor league ballparks we visited were new to us. In 2024 we saw baseball in Nashville, Chattanooga, Asheville and Charlotte for the first time.

Anyone who knows us knows we are both big music geeks. This trip had as much emphasis on music as it did on baseball. The song links shown in different places below don't even begin to scratch the surface of the music associated with places we visited along the way this time.


2024 route

The 2024 route. If Aliyah had been in Augusta, we would have gone south from Chattanooga past Atlanta to Augusta, then made our way to Charlotte






Day One - Pittsburgh


We headed for familiar territory to start the trip. Not only had we been to PNC Park, the home of the Pittsburgh Pirates, on two earlier Two Guys trips, we'd each been to games there on other occasions. Pittsburgh is a pretty easy drive from the Washington DC area and we got there with time to spare before the game. We parked a few miles from PNC and took Pittsburgh's free subway to a station near the Allegheny River. We celebrated Pirate great Roberto Clemente's birthday by walking across the bridge named in his honor, which comes out at the ballpark.

PNC Park is a beautiful place to watch baseball. We both grew up in the 1970s, during the age of the "multipurpose stadium" where baseball and football teams would share a stadium that inevitably would be a bad place to watch baseball. PNC opened in 2001 and was part of the welcome trend of throwback style ballparks started by Camden Yards in Baltimore. It has a great view of Pittsburgh's skyline and several of the bridges that cross the Allegheny.

The game was scoreless for the first seven innings. In the eighth the Mets scored on a two out double by Brandon Nimmo but the Pirates came back with two runs of their own in the bottom of the inning. They then turned to former All-Star Aroldis Chapman to nail it down. He got two outs but then gave up a two-run single to Francisco Linder and the Pirates lost.

Since it was an afternoon game, we decided to get a head start on the next day's drive, so we left Pittsburgh and drove to Cambridge, OH where we spent the night. On the way there, we spent a short time in West Virginia, a state we'd never been in together, bringing us to 43 states traveled through on Two Guys trips.

Pirates score

PNC Park

PNC Park, Pittsburgh



Day Two - Ohio


Our first stop on Monday was the small town of New Concord, OH. Three great Americans were born in New Concord - astronaut and U.S. Senator John Glenn, his wife Annie and Lottie Payne. The Glenns are more famous, but Dave has a soft spot in his heart for Lottie - she was his mother-in-law. Lottie grew up with the Glenns (Dave's wife Bobbi has their high school yearbook) and was still in touch with them when John Glenn became the first American to orbit the Earth in 1962.

John Glenn and Lottie's childhood homes are both still standing in New Concord. Unlike Lottie's, John Glenn's home is now a museum . Unfortunately, it is closed on Mondays, but we stopped and walked around the outside of it.

Our second game of the trip was an early evening one in Cincinnati. We made a slight detour after leaving New Concord, heading for Dayton, the home of the Wright Brothers and Wright-Patterson Air Force Base. Our plan was to hit the U.S. Air Force Museum at Wright-Patterson and then go to the Dayton Aviation Heritage area, which is devoted to the Wright Brothers.

It didn't quite work out as planned - we figured on a couple of hours at the Air Force Museum. We ended up staying there for four hours and didn't get to see everything. It's huge, taking up four large hangars and containing more than 300 aircraft. While there is an emphasis on the Air Force, it is more than that, devoted to aviation in general. And there's no admission fee!

We were sorry to miss out on the Wright Brothers part of town, but we live near the Smithsonian's Air and Space Museum, which had just recently opened an excellent exhibit devoted to the Wrights so it was a sacrifice we were willing to make.

John Glenn's childhood home

John Glenn's childhood home, now The John and Annie Glenn Museum


USAF Museum

B-24 bomber - Dave's dad was a crew
member on one of these in World War II

Air Force One

The Air Force One plane on which Nixon flew to China and
LBJ took the oath of office after the JFK assassination



We had been to Great American Ballpark in Cincinnati once before, on our 2004 trip, but that time we had very little time to take it all in. This time we made sure we got there early enough to take a good look around. As we had done in Pittsburgh, we parked across the river from the ballpark and walked over. This time that involved crossing state lines - the Ohio River is the boundary between Ohio and Kentucky.

Dave's all-time favorite player is Hall of Famer Tony Perez, who had his best years with the Big Red Machine Cincinnati teams of the early-to-mid 1970s. As with most newer ballparks, Great American has statues of team greats around the ballpark and the first thing we did was find the Tony Perez statue, which depicts his home run in Game 7 of the 1975 World Series against Boston. The building across the street is about the height of the Green Monster in Fenway Park and in conjunction with the statue, there is a baseball attached to a rod on the roof, replicating the arc of that homer.

One of the things we kept hearing about Great American was that the Reds Hall of Fame and Museum is a must-see. It wasn't open when we there in 2004, so this was brand new to us. It's excellent, probably the best team museum we've been to, with over 15,000 square feet of display space tracing the history of baseball in Cincinnati from the first professional team (the 1869 Red Stockings) up to the present day.

The ballpark itself was nicer than we remembered from our quick visit 20 years earlier. The Reds easily handled the Rockies. The star of the game was Reds right fielder Rece Hinds, who, in his major league debut, went 2 for 3 with a booming home run in the eighth inning. Another notable play was a return throw from the Rockies catcher sailing over the pitcher's head, allowing a Reds runner to score from third.

Reds score

Great American Ballpark, Cincinnati

Great American Ballpark, Cincinnati



Great American Ballpark

The ballpark is in Ohio.
The other side of the river is Kentucky.

Tony Perez

Dave and his fave.
The ball sailing over the wall across the
street was too small to get a good picture of.

Reds Hall of Fame

The Cincinnati Reds Hall of Fame and Museum



Day Three - Nashville, Part 1

We arrived in Nashville on Tuesday morning. We'd stopped there for a few hours on our 2018 trip, which was not nearly enough time to get much of what the town has to offer. This time we stayed for two days.

Our first stop was the Country Music Hall of Fame. We'd visited there in 2018 but went through it pretty quickly. One option when you visit the Hall is a guided tour through RCA Studio B. We hadn't had time for that on our previous visit so the first thing we did was hop on a shuttle over to Studio B, getting a little history lesson about both the town and the music industry from our guide.

Studio B was built in 1957 when RCA started a Nashville division, headed by Chet Atkins. It became a huge hit factory for country and early rock 'n' roll artists - Elvis Presley recorded over 240 songs there and many, many huge hits were cut inside those walls.

After the Studio B tour, we headed back to the Country Music Hall of Fame and spent a few hours there. In addition to the permanent exhibits, there was a special one, Western Edge: The Roots and Reverberations of Los Angeles Country-Rock, which covers the mixing of country music with rock 'n' roll from the 1960s into the somewhat harder edged 1980s.



RCA Studio B

The piano Elvis played in RCA Studio B


Hank Williams

Hank Williams
Nothing more needs to be said

Country Hall of Fame

Western Edge exhibit


Burritos

Nudie suits worn by The Flying Burrito Brothers,
all together for the first time in over 50 years


Country Hall of Fame



Country Music Hall of Fame
Waiting For a Train - Jimmie Rodgers
Your Cheatin' Heart - Hank Wiliams
I Fall To Pieces - Patsy Cline
Mama Tried - Merle Haggard
King of The Road - Roger Miller
Blue Eyes Crying In The Rain - Willie Nelson
Excuse Me (I Think I've Got a Heartache - Buck Owens
Sunday Morning Coming Down - Johnny Cash
Stand By Your Man - Tammy Wynette
He Stopped Loving Her Today - George Jones
Coal Miner's Daughter - Loretta Lynn
You Don't Know Me - Ray Charles


RCA Studio B
Oh Lonesome Me - Don Gibson
He'll Have To Go - Jim Reeves
Cathy's Clown - The Everly Brothers
Only The Lonely - Roy Orbison
Little Sister - Elvis Presley
The End of The World - Skeeter Davis
Green, Green Grass of Home - Porter Wagoner
I Will Always Love You - Dolly Parton
Is Anybody Goin' To San Antone - Charley Pride
Only Daddy That'll Walk The Line - Waylon Jennings

(All of these Studio B artists except Roy Orbison
are also in the Country Music Hall of Fame)

Western Edge Exhibit
You Ain't Goin' Nowhere - The Byrds
Wheels - The Flying Burrito Brothers
Rock 'n' Roll Woman - Buffalo Springfield
Willin' - Linda Ronstadt
You Better Think Twice - Poco
Boulder To Birmingham - Emmylou Harris
Will The Wolf Survive? - Los Lobos
Soap, Soup and Salvation - Lone Justice
Marie, Marie - The Blasters



Nashville is the capital of country music but one of its nicknames is Music City - as in all genres.

We had a couple of instances where we visited non-country music specific sites in Nashville. Our first was after we finished at the Country Music Hall of Fame. We walked up a long hill and came to the old Nashville Municipal Auditorium, a venue that has hosted concerts and other events for more than sixty years.

Since 2013 it has also been the home of the Musicians Hall of Fame, which honors musicians of all genres, primarily devoted to sidemen rather than the name on the front of the album. Dave and Bobbi had stumbled across it by chance on a visit to Nashville and he was happy to make a return visit.


Musician's Hall of Fame

The Musicians Hall of Fame

Musician's Hall of Fame




We'd immersed ourselves in music all day. Now it was time for baseball. We continued up the hill to First Horizon Park, the home of the Nashville Sounds, the Triple-A affiliate of the Milwaukee Brewers.

First Horizon is a nice ballpark, built in 2015 on a site where baseball had been played in Nashville since the late 1800s. Its most distinguishing feature is its guitar-shaped scoreboard. Unfortunately, what we were greeted with when we entered the ballpark was the field covered with a tarp and the scoreboard telling us the game was delayed. It wasn't raining when we got there but it poured shortly afterwards.

In 34 years of Two Guys trips, we'd been rained out exactly one time. This was not going to be the second. The rain stopped, the humidity broke and after an hour and thirteen minute delay, the game got underway and proceeded without interruption.

The Iowa Cubs (whose home was the site of our infamous singing debut in 2006) took an early lead. Nashville didn't get their first hit until the bottom of the fifth, but it was a home run followed three batters later by another, which was all they needed. Despite getting only four hits, the Sounds won 3-1.


Sounds score



Rain delay

Uh oh

Tony Perez

Two Guys do NOT get rained out!



Day Four - Nashville, Part 2

We started our second day in Nashville with not one, but two walking tours. The first was of the Tennessee state capital building during which we learned the story of how Tennessee became the deciding vote for the 19th Amendment, which gave women the right to vote (the legislature was deadlocked until one member changed his mind. Why? His mother told him to. There is a statue of her in Knoxville, TN.) It is also the only state capital that has a US President buried on its grounds (James K. Polk).

We then shifted gears and took a walking tour around downtown. This was somewhat irreverent - we stopped in a very nice Art Deco hotel bathroom, walked down Printer's Alley which was where the after hours clubs and strip joints used to be - Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley and Jimi Hendrix all spent time down there - and visited a couple of dive bars down on Lower Broadway.

Lower Broadway is the tourist trap part of downtown Nashville, full of new bars with various current country stars names plastered on them. But it is also where Tootsie's Orchid Lounge is located. Tootsie's is a tourist draw but it has a long, illustrious history. It's right across the alley from The Ryman Auditorium and many a huge country star has walked across that alley between sets, sat themselves down in Tootsie's and then stumbled back.


Tennessee state capital

Tennessee state capital


Tootsies Orchid Lounge

The impressive Art Deco bathroom
in the Hermitage Hotel


Tootsies Orchid Lounge

Tootsie's Orchid Lounge


The Ryman Auditorium was built over 130 years ago as a tabernacle for religious services. Over time it became a theater where music acts, plays, Vaudeville productions and other types of entertainment were performed.

For over 30 years it was the home of the Grand Ole Opry radio show. Any country music performer of any renown from the 1940s through the 1970s played there. It was abandoned not long after the Opry moved to their new (tourist trap) digs outside of town but eventually the Ryman was restored and is once again a working venue.

There are two types of tours of the Ryman - the self-guided one and the backstage, guided tour. We'd only had time for the self-guided one during our brief stop in 2018; this time we did the very interesting backstage tour.


The Ryman

The Mother Church
of Country Music:
The Ryman Auditorium

The Ryman



Then we crossed the street to the National Museum of African American Music, which had opened since the last time we'd been in Nashville. It has five galleries tracing different types and times of African American music with interactive displays about musicians, music executives, radio personalities and more. Definitely worth visiting.



National Museum of African American Music
Up Above My Head - Sister Rosetta Tharpe
Oh Happy Day - The Edwin Hawkins Singers
Come On In My Kitchen - Robert Johnson
Got My Mojo Workin' - Muddy Waters
Good Rockin' Tonight - Wynonie Harris
Shake, Rattle and Roll - Joe Turner
On Green Dolphin Street - Miles Davis
Take The A Train - Duke Ellington
A Change Is Gonna Come - Sam Cooke
Respect - Aretha Franklin
Please Please Please - James Brown
Give Up The Funk - Parliament
The Message - Grandmaster Flash and The Furious Five
Kiss - Prince and The Revolution

Museum of African American Music



You cannot go to Music City USA and not hear music performed live. The bands playing country covers in the Lower Broadway bars we'd ducked into earlier in the day didn't count. Prior to the trip, Dave had been watching the music listings for the days we'd be there but hadn't come up with anything for us to go hear.

Fortunately, we had an insider to consult. Dave was once interviewed by a reporter from the Washington Post. The reporter, Eric Brace, and Dave bonded over mutual music geekdom and have remained friends over the years. Eric is not only a writer, he's also a musician and eventually he left the Post and moved to Nashville to concentrate on music full time. Check out his various musical projects, they're really good!

Eric suggested we go to a place we'd never heard of, Dee's Country Cocktail Lounge, to see his friend Jon Byrd. Dee's is outside of town and is a place the locals go, not the tourists. Jon Byrd plays there every Wednesday night with a fine pedal steel player named Paul Niehaus.

We were not disappointed. Dave loves dive bars and Dee's fits the bill in the best way (I'll bet none of the bars on Lower Broadway have Johnny Paycheck, Iggy Pop, Gram Parsons and Prince all sharing space on their jukeboxes!)

DC is not a big country music fan, but he appreciates good music in any form and we both greatly enjoyed the performance. We chatted with Jon Byrd for a bit, he's a real nice guy. Dave's wife Bobbi discovered that the show was being streamed so she listened too and even sent a tip all the way from Springfield VA when they played a Gram Parsons song.

The show ended early in the evening, so we hit the road to get a head start on the next day's drive.


Dee's

Dee's Country
Cocktail Lounge

Jon Byrd on guitar,
Paul Niehaus on pedal steel

Jon Byrd




Day Five - Muscle Shoals and Chattanooga

FAME Recording Studios
You Better Move On - Arthur Alexander
I Never Loved a Man (The Way I Love You) - Aretha Franklin
Neighbor, Neighbor - Jimmy Hughes
I'm Your Puppet - James and Bobby Purify
You Left The Water Running - Otis Redding
Hey Jude - Wilson Pickett (with Duane Allman)
I'd Rather Go Blind - Etta James
Slip Away - Clarence Carter
Sweet Soul Music - Arthur Conley
I'd Rather Be An Old Man's Sweetheart (Than a Young Man's Fool) - Candi Staton
Fancy - Bobby Gentry


Welcome To Muscle Shoals


Muscle Shoals Recording Studio
Take a Letter Maria - R.B. Greaves
I'll Take You There - The Staple Singers
Kodachrome - Paul Simon
Wild Horses - The Rolling Stones
Bloody Mary Morning - Willie Nelson
Don't Knock My Love - Wilson Pickett
Mainstreet - Bob Seger
Sitting In Limbo - Jimmy Cliff
Starting All Over Again - Mel and Tim
Gotta Serve Somebody - Bob Dylan
Giving It Up For Your Love - Delbert McClinton
Freebird (Muscle Shoals version) - Lynyrd Skynyrd

We spent some time in Alabama on our 2012 trip, but it wasn't until afterwards that we realized we'd been within an hour of hallowed ground for music geeks (at least music geeks of our generation.) Muscle Shoals AL is the home of not one, but two great recording studios, both of which offer tours. We arrived in Muscle Shoals shortly before 9:00 AM on Thursday for our tour of FAME Studios.

Florence, Muscle Shoals and Tuscumbia are small neighboring cities clustered around the Tennessee River. FAME is an acronym for Florence Alabama Music Enterprises, which was established in 1959. The primary person behind the company was a man named Rick Hall. They cut their first hit, Arthur Alexander's 'You Better Move On', in 1960 and used the profits to open the studio that we toured. (Here's a good bar bet question - "Who is the only songwriter to have his songs recorded by The Beatles AND The Rolling Stones AND Bob Dylan?" The answer is Arthur Alexander.)

Once FAME was in their new studio, they began cranking out hit after hit, mostly soul with a fair amount of country as well. Aretha Franklin, who had struggled on Columbia Records, cut one song for her Atlantic Records debut there. (The reason it was only one song is quite the story, it's told at length in the book and movie shown below).

Wilson Pickett, Clarence Carter, Irma Thomas, Joe Tex and Otis Redding are among the hundreds of others who have recorded there. Duane Allman used to camp out in the parking lot in hopes of picking up session work and once he got his foot in the door, he used Studio B in FAME to jam with some other musicians - that's where the Allman Brothers became a band.

FAME continues to be a recording studio to this day.

Fame Studios

FAME Recording Studios

FAME Studios

Tuscumbia is the home of The Alabama Music Hall of Fame (the state of Alabama, not the band - although they are undoubtedly represented there). We had hoped to get there after the FAME tour but didn't have enough time. We noticed that Helen Keller had been in born in Tuscumbia and and Florence was where W.C. Handy was born, so we did a quick drive-by of both birthplaces instead and then headed for our next stop.

While many musicians played on the recordings that came out of FAME, there was a core band of four musicians - David Hood on bass, Jimmy Johnson on guitar, Roger Hawkins on drums and Barry Beckett on keyboards, collectively known as "The Swampers" - who played on most of the recordings. They eventually broke away from Rick Hall and started their own studio, Muscle Shoals Sound Studio (the story of the break as told on the FAME tour is not quite the same as the story told on the Muscle Shoals Studio tour).

The first album recorded there, Cher's '3614 Jackson Highway' (named after the studio's address) was a flop. But then 'Take a Letter Maria' by R.B. Greaves became a hit and the floodgates opened. After The Staple Singers 'I'll Take You There' became a big hit, Paul Simon called the head of the Staples' record label and said he wanted the same black band that had played on it. The response was "I can book you the same band but you're going to find them awfully pale." (David Hood once said the Swampers look like "a bunch of guys who would work in a grocery store".)

The Swampers were mentioned in the Lynyrd Skynyrd song 'Sweet Home Alabama - "Now Muscle Shoals has got the Swampers and they've been known to pick a song or two". That song was not recorded at Muscle Shoals but an early version of 'Freebird' was.

Bob Dylan, Wilson Pickett, Rod Stewart, Willie Nelson, Bob Seger, Paul Simon, The Osmond Brothers (yes - The Osmond Brothers), John Prine, Gregg Allman, Bobby Womack, Linda Ronstadt, Joe Cocker, Leon Russell and many more recorded there.

The Swampers played on most of the music coming out of their studio, but sometimes self-contained bands came in to use it too, including Traffic, Dire Straits and The Black Keys. The most famous band session at Muscle Shoals was in December of 1969. The Rolling Stones spent three nights there and came out with three songs that ended up on their classic 'Sticky Fingers' album - 'Brown Sugar', 'Wild Horses' and 'You Gotta Move'. (The studio charged them $1,009 for studio time to record ‘Wild Horses’ – Mick and Keith probably consider it money well spent.)

The Swampers eventually sold Muscle Shoals Studios and the building was used for other things including an appliance store. (One of the people on our tour was a former resident of Muscle Shoals - she told us she used to drive by the building every day and had no idea anything historic had ever occurred there.) In 2013 the documentary shown below sparked interest in the studio and it was restored to the way it was as a recording studio in the 1970s, opening for both recording sessions and tours in 2017.

Muscle Shoals

Muscle Shoals Sound Studio

Muscle Shoals






If you want to learn more about Southern Soul in general and Muscle Shoals in particular, these books and documentary are highly recommended.
(This video is the trailer of the documentary. The entire film is also available on YouTube here.)


Soul Music book

Muscle Shoals book


After we finished at Muscle Shoals, we headed out of Alabama and back into Tennessee for our next ballgame.

We made it to Chattanooga in late afternoon and headed over to the ballpark. AT&T Field was built in 2000 but it looks older. One of the ushers told us AT&T doesn't meet Major League Baseball's minimum standards for a Double-A team which is why Chattanooga was scheduled to open a new ballpark in 2025. (We can only hope they get a new singer for the National Anthem.)

AT&T sits at the top of a hill (it is the only ballpark in minor league baseball with an escalator outside the park). While it's not much to look at, it does have nice views of the mountains around Chattanooga on one side and downtown Chattanooga on the other.

Dave was wearing the Two Guys 2024 shirt, which lists ballparks we visited that year. The shirt caught the attention of the woman sitting behind us and she struck up a conversation. Jacki and her friend Michelle were in town for the Literary Ink Tattoo Convention and because Jacki is a big baseball fan, they had come to the game. It turns out Jacki is a huge Yankees fan and Michelle is a huge hockey fan, so we had a fun conversation for most of the game.

It was a see-saw battle between the Chattanooga Lookouts and the Biloxi Shuckers with the Lookouts winning on a wild throw in the tenth.

Lookouts score

AT&T Field

AT&T Field, Chattanooga


AT&T Field

AT&T Field


Jacki and Michelle

Our trip was all about baseball and music.
Jacki and Michelle's was for baseball and tattoos.



Day Six - Chattanooga and Asheville

During the Civil War, Chattanooga was an important railroad hub and Lookout Mountain was a strategic point for observation and artillery posts. In November 1863 Union troops stormed the Confederate positions on the mountain in a clash known at the "Battle Above The Clouds". Today, there is a museum, monuments and a walking trail up there. Dave inherited an interest in the Civil War from his father, so we spent some time at the Lookout Mountain Battlefield before moving on.

On another part of Lookout Mountain is Ruby Falls. There is a large cave inside the mountain that goes more than 1100 feet below the surface. It's full of interesting geological formations, underwater streams and a waterfall. The waterfall was discovered by Leo Lambert, who drilled through thousands of tons of limestone and opened up the cave for tours in 1930.

Once visitors descend on an elevator, there is a walk of about a quarter mile to get to the falls. They've put in a walkway so there is even footing but it is claustrophobic, and you definitely have to watch your head. The geological formations are very interesting, and the falls are nice too.


Lookout Mountain

The view from Lookout Mountain.
The city of Chattanooga is on the upper right.

"Watch yourself now!"
Walking towards Ruby Falls

Ruby Falls

Inside Lookout Mountain

Ruby Falls

Ruby Falls,
more than 1100 feet below the surface


We'd done history. We'd done nature. Now it was time for baseball. When it became clear that DC's daughter would not be in Augusta by the time we were on this trip, we decided to go in another direction, mostly because we didn't want to be anywhere near Atlanta at rush hour.

DC had been to Asheville before (although not for baseball) and liked it. They have minor league baseball. It made our drive the following day easier. So we decided go there instead of Augusta. After our visit to Ruby Falls we headed east from Chattanooga into North Carolina. We did much of this drive off of major highways, traveling through some very nice forest lands and arrived in Asheville just in time for the baseball game.

McCormick Field in Asheville opened in 1924. It may be one of only two ballparks in America still standing that Babe Ruth played in. (Rickwood Field in Birmingham, AL being the other. There may be more, but certainly not many.) It's a classic old fashioned brick ballpark, sitting atop a hill in a residential neighborhood, and it looks remarkably good for its age. Beyond the outfield wall is another hill, covered in trees, making for a really nice background.

Like many minor league ballparks, McCormick Field has pictures up around the park showing famous players who spent time in Asheville. We got a chuckle out of seeing Crash Davis included - the fictional character in the movie Bull Durham ended his baseball career with the Tourists. A couple of scenes in the movie were filmed at McCormick Field.


Once again, a t-shirt led to a fun conversation. Dave noticed the man behind us was wearing a Washington Nationals related t-shirt. It turned out that not only had Phillip lived in the Washington area, but he had also taught high school for several years within walking distance of Dave's house.

Asheville took advantage of a couple of home runs and a throwing error by the Aberdeen Ironbirds to score five runs in the sixth inning and held on for a 6-5 win.

The game was followed by a fireworks show, bringing an end to another full day.

Lookouts score


McCormick Field

"My, my, what a beautiful place to play. Delightful. Damned delightful place to play." - Babe Ruth, 1926
McCormick Field in Asheville NC

Fireworks

Friday night fireworks



Day Seven - Asheville and Charlotte

Asheville is known for its vibrant art scene. It has one of highest number of breweries per capita in the United States. Biltmore Estate, the largest privately owned house in the United States (it's almost 180,000 square feet) is located there.

So where did we go on our morning in Asheville? Why, Citizen Vinyl and The Asheville Pinball Museum , of course!

(The admission to Biltmore is insanely expensive and we couldn't justify the cost for the amount of time we had available. We did go into an art shop but if you know us, you probably aren't surprised that we went for the more down-to-earth attractions.)

After years of compact discs being the main format for recorded music, vinyl records began making a comeback and in 2022, vinyl outsold CDs for the first time since 1987. Record companies have struggled to keep up with demand - at the time of our visit there were only 29 record pressing plants in the United States and only about 40 in the world.

One of those is Citizen Vinyl in Asheville. It's a combination coffee shop, cafe, performance space, record store and pressing plant (Dave would probably live there if he could; it's his dream business).

Citizen Vinyl is in a building that was built in 1939 to house Asheville's two newspapers and radio station WWNC, which beamed music all across the Southern United States. Country Music Hall of Famer Jimmie Rodgers lived in Asheville and performed on WWNC. The building still looks great today.

We were allowed to tour the pressing plant and learned a lot about the manufacturing process. They weren't pressing records that day but the plant is behind large glass windows on the first floor so you can watch records being made when they are running the presses.


Jimmie Rogers

Country Music Hall of Famer
Jimmie Rodgers plaque

Citizen Vinyl

Citizen Vinyl, housed in the Asheville Citizen-Times building

Pressing Plant

The record pressing plant



The Asheville Pinball Museum contains about 80 pinball machines and arcade games from modern day all the way back to the 1930s. Each machine has signage with information about the game. The price of admission gives one the right to play as many games as they'd like (some of the more fragile machines are off limits.)

We arrived there shortly after they opened and were told that the wait for the opportunity to play was almost two hours, which was more time than we had before we had to hit the road. But they very kindly allowed us in to walk around and take pictures, as long as we didn't touch anything.

The man who owns the Pinball Museum has an auxiliary museum a few doors away that specializes in posters and lunchboxes - Star Wars, The Beatles, The Munsters, Tarzan etc. Dave was thrilled and surprised to see the lunchbox he used in elementary school on display. (Anyone remember Supercar?)

Pinball Museum

Pinball Museum



After the Pinball Museum and Lunchbox Hall of Fame, we hit the road once again, heading for Charlotte NC.

Dave has a longtime friend whose son lives in Charlotte. We asked Katy if Evan could point us to someplace good to eat near the park. Not only did Evan give us a good suggestion, he joined us for dinner. After good food and nice conversation, we entered Truist Field (not to be confused with Truist Park in Atlanta).

We don't know what it is about North Carolina, but they have great ballparks. We'd been to a game in Durham in 2018. Great park. We'd been to McCormick Field in Asheville the night before. Great park. Truist Field did not disappoint. It holds about 10,000 people and opened in downtown Charlotte in 2014. It's smack dab in the middle of downtown. All of the seating is below street level, so it doesn't have a high profile from the outside. Inside pretty much every seat has a striking city view backdrop.


The game was another see-saw battle with Charlotte ultimately coming out on top by a score of 7-5. Former Washington National Wilmer Dafoe played a big part for Charlotte with a hit and a walk with the bases loaded.

For the second night in a row there were post-game fireworks. And with that, the activities of the Two Guys and a Map Ring Around The Appalachians Tour, Part 2 came to an end. For the last time on this tour, we got a head start on the next leg of our journey, driving to Greensboro NC after the game, then making the five-hour drive home the next day.


Knights score



Truist Field

Dinner with Evan

Truist Field

Truist Field in Charlotte NC

Fireworks

Saturday night fireworks


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